Beauty of Joseon
21 September 2024
The necessity of wearing sunscreen daily is well acknowledged, especially in Singapore where the UV index is high all year round. However, sunscreens that feel heavy and sticky can be a put-off in Singapore’s hot and humid climate. It’s no wonder, then, that lightweight sunscreens are a popular choice here.
One Korean sunscreen that is blowing up on the internet right now is Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen. Not since the Purito sunscreen controversy in 2020 has a K-beauty sunscreen garnered so much attention on the internet and forums. This sunscreen, Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen, has gone viral on TikTok and Reddit; with numerous beauty influencers giving high praises for its lightweight texture and glowy finish.
Related blogpost:
Can Asian Sunscreens Be Trusted? The Purito Controversy Explained
This sunscreen is actually a relaunch of the original formulation from 2020, shortly before the Purito sunscreen scandal which resulted in public doubt over the credibility of the stated SPF ratings of K-beauty sunscreens. The reputation of Korean skincare brands also took a hit as a result of this fall out. Although Beauty of Joseon was not called out, the brand reworked the formulation of their sunscreen and released it in 2021. The new formulation of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen contains 4 chemical sunscreen filters instead of two chemical sunscreen filters in the original formulation.
To allay concerns about the credibility of its SPF ratings, Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen has also been verified by two separate laboratories in South Korea and Spain to have SPF ratings of 52.5±5.8 and 63.1±0.6 respectively. This information is stated on Beauty of Joseon’s website.
Beauty of Joseon is a Korean beauty brand with a Hanbang approach to skincare. Hanbang refers to the use of traditional Korean medicinal ingredients in skincare. Hanbang medicine and skincare is strongly rooted in the belief that one’s appearance is closely linked to the function of internal organs. Hence, the holistic approach in Hanbang medicine, where caring for the skin also means caring for one’s overall health. Korean herbs such as ginseng and white lotus, which are often used in tonics, are often included in Hanbang skincare. Some of these traditional ingredients are said to reduce inflammation and improve skin rejuvenation.
The Joseon dynasty ruled Korea from 1392 to 1897. One of the most well known books from the Joseon dynasty is the Gyuhap Chongseo,which translates to Women’s Encyclopedia. This book details the traditional Korean beauty rituals; and Beauty of Joseon has adapted some of the herbal medications for skincare use.
Sunscreen coverage of Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen
• UVB: SPF 50+
• UVA: PA ++++
Sunscreen filters in Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen
• Chemical filters: Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T 150, Tinosorb M, Iscotrizinol
Notable ingredients or features in Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen
• Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract :
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract contains polyphenolic compounds (e.g. anthocyanins) which have anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects when consumed orally and in animal studies1-5. These benefits on the skin when applied topically are less clear due to the lack of human studies. However, Oryza Sativa Extract in skincare may lighten hyperpigmentation due to the tyrosinase inhibition activity of gamma oryzanol in rice bran extract6.
• Probiotics: Lactobacillus/ Pumpkin ferment extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Monascus rice ferment.
Probiotics applied to the skin may offer some anti-acne and improvement in skin barrier. The efficacies of probiotic skincare and supplements in dermatology has been covered in Probiotics in Skincare & Supplements: Do They Work?
• Niacinamide
Another antioxidant with several benefits including improving skin barrier and hydration. Learn more about niacinamide and how to choose a product for your skin in Niacinamide: A Versatile Antioxidant Your Skin Will Thank You For.
• Tocopherol
Tocopherol is vitamin E, another antioxidant which also strengthen the skin barrier.
• Camellia sinensis extract
Camellia sinensis extract refers to green tea extract. You can learn more about Camellia sinensis skincare in Benefits of Green Tea in Skincare.
• Panax ginseng root extract
Ginseng’s popularity in Korean skincare dates back to the 16th century. Ginseng extracts contain a number of active ingredients including ginsenosides, amino acids, vitamins and peptides. In small studies, ginsenosides in skincare have been show to lighten hyperpigmentation and reduce collagen breakdown in the skin7-11.
Price of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen:
SGD$14. I bought it from a Shoppee retailer.
The good about Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen is a broad spectrum with good levels of UVA and UVB protection. In the wake of the Purito sunscreen scandal which called into question the reliability of Korean sunscreens, it is commendable that Beauty of Joseon submitted this sunscreen to two different independent labs in Korea and Spain for verification. On Beauty of Joseon’s site, the SPF ratings from these labs are 52.5±5.8 and 63.1±0.6 respectively. As mentioned in Can Asian Sunscreens Be Trusted?, these tests can be prone to variations in outcome due to the nature of SPF testing, so having additional laboratory tests that verify the stated SPF ratings of the manufacturer would improve the reliability of the sunscreen’s stated values. What would also work in Beauty of Joseon’s favour is to also publish the results of these tests to substantiate these claims.
The ingredient list is packed with a number of active ingredients that help to calm the skin such as rice extracts, probiotics, niacinamide and green tea extract; making Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen suitable for users with sensitive skin. I used this sunscreen after a chemical peel and found that it was very calming on my skin and reduced some of my redness.
Related blogposts:
The Truth about Chemical Peels
A Complete Guide to Acids in Skincare & Chemical Exfoliation
Review of Face Exfoliating Acids in Skincare
Other good stuff in Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen- lots of humectants to moisturise the skin and ginseng extract for reducing fine lines. Also, even though Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen also does not contain fragrances and essential oils; this sunscreen does not have an unpleasant chemical smell.
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen is a lightweight gel that sinks into my skin easily without much blending required. The finish is very and feels satin smooth on my skin. This sunscreen did not pill or interfere with makeup. It felt almost weightless on my skin, dries very quickly and does not transfer to my face masks. Another plus- it washes off easily with facial wash without needing a double cleanse.
Related blogposts:
How to Prevent Your Sunscreen from Pilling
This sunscreen is also very affordable- SGD$14 for 50 ml. Despite this low price, this sunscreen is well formulated and the weightless texture is commendable.
The bad about Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen
Despite having several humectants and emollients in the formulation, I did not find Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen to be hydrating at all. Where some sunscreens can double as a moisturiser, such as Ultra Violette’s Queen Screen SPF 50+, Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen definitely does not deliver on this front, especially for users with normal and dry skin.
Related blogpost:
Ultraviolette Queen Screen SPF 50+ Review
The feel of Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen on the skin is lovely, but the finish is mediocre. There was a faint but still visible white cast on my skin; so if your skin tone is darker than mine; this white cast may be more apparent. Although Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen contains only chemical (organic filters); so technically it should not have this white cast; however one of the sunscreen filters (Tinosorb M) has been associated with a white cast due to the dispersion of UV rays, similar to how the mineral filters work.
There is no cosmetic coverage; leaving matte and basic finish when the sunscreen dried. In certain lighting, the matte made my skin look dull. I found this to be disappointing because of all the hype and good reviews about the finish of Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen.
The sunscreen market is saturated with Asian sunscreens that deliver both broad and adequate protection; as well as a nice cosmetic finish, as I’ve shared in my blogposts Sunscreen Reviews 2024, Sunscreen Reviews 2021 and Sunscreen Reviews 2019. I prefer sunscreens that give a radiant finish; and Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen was lacking in this department.
A very affordable and lightweight sunscreen with no white cast. Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen is better for oily skin. The texture is lovely but the finish made my skin look dull at times. I would not repurchase Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen.
References:
1. Phenolic compounds and antioxidant properties of breeding lines between the white and black rice. Zhang et al. Food Chem. 2015 Apr 1;172:630-9.
2. Antioxidant effects of black rice extract through the induction of superoxide dismutase and catalase activities. Chiang et al. Lipids. 2006 Aug;41(8):797-803.
3. Supplementation of black rice pigment fraction improves antioxidant and anti-inflammatory status in patients with coronary heart disease. Wang et al. Asia Pac J Clin Nutr. 2007;16 Suppl 1:295-301.
4. Protective effects of black rice bran against chemically-induced inflammation of mouse skin. Choi et al. J Agric Food Chem. 2010 Sep 22;58(18):10007-15
5. An anthocyanin-rich extract from black rice enhances atherosclerotic plaque stabilization in apolipoprotein E-deficient mice. Xia et al .J Nutr. 2006 Aug;136(8):2220-5.
6. Potency of Γ-oryzanol-rich blackrice bran (Oryza Sativa L. Indica) extract for tyrosinase inhibition. Vardhani et al. IntJ Pharm Pharm Sci. 2020:90–3.
7. Ginseng in Dermatology: A Review. Sabouri-Rad et al. Curr Pharm Des. 2017;23(11):1649-1666.
8. Applications of Panax ginseng leaves-mediated gold nanoparticles in cosmetics relation to antioxidant, moisture retention, and whitening effect on B16BL6 cells. Jiménez-Pérez et al. J Ginseng Res. 2018 Jul;42(3):327-333.
9. Effects of Korean ginseng berry on skin antipigmentation and antiaging via FoxO3a activation. Kim et al. J Ginseng Res. 2017 Jul;41(3):277-283
10. Antimelanogenesis and skin-protective activities of Panax ginseng calyx ethanol extract. Lee et al. J Ginseng Res. 2018 Jul;42(3):389-399.
11. Isolation and Quantification of Ginsenoside Rh23, a New Anti-Melanogenic Compound from the Leaves of Panax ginseng. Lee et al. Molecules. 2018 Jan 29;23(2):267
