Acids

Review of Face Exfoliating Acids in Skincare

08 July 2022

 

My review of the best and worst face acids for different skin types!

 

Different face acids for different folks. In an earlier blogpost A Complete Guide to Acids & Chemical Exfoliation, I’ve shared that using acids in skincare is one of the best ways to exfoliate your skin to treat conditions such as acne and hyperpigmentation; and to improve one’s general skin health. By removing the top layer of dead, dull skin and trapped dirt, the newer skin that emerges from underneath is naturally smoother and brighter.

 

The essentials of acids in skincare and how to choose them according to your skin types and tips on skincare pairings and how to get started have been covered in that blogpost. As a follow up, I’m sharing my reviews of acid skincare that I’ve tried in this blogposts. My recommendations, dupes of cult favourites and duds will be shared in this post. I hope that you’ll find this blogpost on exfoliating acids in skincare useful. To healthier skin for everyone 🙂

 

Related blogposts:

Hyperpigmentation Disorders: Types, Causes & Treatment

How to Lighten Hyperpigmentation & Dark Spots with Skincare 

Acne: Types, Causes, Treatments & Prevention

5 Skincare Ingredients for Acne & Acne Prone Skin

   

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial 

 

Review of Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial

 

Drunk Elephant is a cult favourite beauty brand that was founded in 2012. As one of the earliest proponents of “clean compatible” beauty, Drunk Elephant has always prided its products as free from so-called “suspicious six ingredients”: essential oils, drying alcohols, silicones, chemical sunscreens, fragrances and sodium lauryl sulfate. The inspiration for Drunk Elephant came from founder Tiffany Masterson’s struggle to find skincare products that worked for her oily skin and acne.

 

Drunk Elephant’s website explaining the ingredients excluded from their products, called the suspicious 6.

 

Masterson, then a homemaker, through her readings, identified the “suspicious six” as the root causes of her skin woes. With the help of a chemist she contacted, Masterson developed a skincare line free of her “suspicious six” ingredients.

 

The inspiration and logo for Drunk Elephant arose from Masterson’s love of marula oil. After watching videos of elephants getting tipsy from consuming the marula fruit; she decided to name her skincare line, Drunk Elephant. Marula oil is also featured in almost all of Drunk Elephant’s products. The irony of this is that Marula oil is a type of essential oil- one of Masterson’s “Suspicious Six” ingredients for Drunk Elephant.

 

Type of product:

Wash off face mask. Apply a layer of Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial on the skin for 15- 20 minutes. Wash off with water afterwards.

 

Types of acid(s) in Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial’s ingredient list:

• AHAs: Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Citric acid. According to Drunk Elephant’s website, TLC Sukari Babyfacial these acids add up to 25%.

• BHA

 

Notable Ingredients in Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial

• Anti-inflammatory: Niacinamide

• Skin barrier and moisturiser: Phytosphingosine, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Propanediol

• Plant extracts (antioxidants and antiinflammatory effects): Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Puntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit, Extract, Silybum Marianum Seed Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract,Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Cicer Arietinum Seed Powder, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Allantoin

• Probiotics: Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract

 

*Marula oil is present as Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil.

 

You can learn more about niacinamide and probiotics in skincare as well as the skin barrier in the following blogposts:

Niacinamide: A Versatile Ingredient Your Skin Will Thank You For

Probiotics in Skincare & Supplements: Do They Work?

How to Repair Your Skin Barrier

 

The irony of Drunk Elephant’s suspicious 6 ingredient list: Marula oil is consistently featured in Drunk Elephant’s skincare range; and the brand also carries a dedicated marula oil product. Marula oil is an essential oil.

 

The Good About Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial is one of the cult favourite  skincare products of beauty editors and aficionados. If you search online for reviews, you’ll find that Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial has countless glowing reviews. I started trying Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial 3 years ago after coming across these positive reviews.

 

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial is a chickpea coloured cream that spreads easily on the face. I followed the instructions to a T and washed off the cream with water after 20 mins; and used it once a week. Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial gave me very quick results- the next day after using it; my skin was brighter, comedones were reduced and my skin was softer. After using it for 4 weeks in a row, the exfoliating results were more pronounced. Although some stubborn blackheads and whiteheads remained and needed a chemical peel to be removed; I found Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial to be overall an effective and fuss free exfoliant.

 

I did not experience any side effects such as redness, dryness or hypersensitivity with Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial. Even though the product contains a good number of ingredients that reduce irritation and moisturise the skin; I still recommend moisturising copiously after using Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial.

 

The Bad About Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial always causes a tingling sensation for about 20-30 seconds on my skin with each use. This discomfort was not painful in any sense for me, but users with sensitive skin may find this exfoliant very uncomfortable. Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial may not be as intense as a chemical peel; but it certainly is powerful as a DIY exfoliant for home use. Burns from Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial have been reported, so please do not leave it on for longer than recommended.

 

Besides being the most costly product in this review (approx SGD$140), Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial is also very troublesome to purchase in Singapore. Drunk Elephant’s products are sold exclusively at Sephora in Singapore; and the TLC Sukari Babyfacial is not available here. I bought Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial through a friend who was travelling in the US; but you can get it shipped in.

 

My Verdict on Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial is an effective acid exfoliant for weekly use. It is better for normal to oily skin types; dry and sensitive skin types will have to proceed cautiously with this one. Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial is also expensive and inconvenient to purchase. I’ll be reviewing the dupe for this! Continue reading to find out which exfoliant is this 🙂

 

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

     

Review of Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

 

Another exfoliant in Drunk Elephant’s line up that’s been well received on social media is the TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum. This leave-on serum contains a combined 12% of glycolic acid and other AHAs (tartaric, lactic and citric acid- TLC, get it?) as well as BHA.

 

Compared to the TLC Sukari Babyfacial; the TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum is a gentler exfoliant. The product comes in a very pretty and ergonomic twist bottle dispensing system that ensures the product remains air tight in the container.

 

Type of product:

Leave on night serum

 

Types of acid(s) in Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum’s ingredient list:

• AHA: Glycolic acid, tartaric acid, lactic aid, citric acid

• BHA

 

Notable Ingredients in Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

• Plant extracts (anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects): Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Allantoin

• Skin barrier and moisturiser: Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Propanediol

 

The Good About Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum is a colourless and odourless serum that dries fairly quickly. It feels weightless on the skin after drying. Despite what its name suggests, Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum can be used in the day time too. I tested Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum over 4 week by using it twice a day.

 

This product did not cause any irritation, dryness or hypersensitivity for me. Results for me kicked in at around the 3 week mark with consistent nightly use. Skin was noticeably more radiant and smoother. A few of my dark spots also looked a little lighter. The blackheads on my nose were reduced, but not totally gone.

 

Compared to Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial this product is a lot easier to purchase. I bought mine from Sephora for $130.

 

The Bad About Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

I honestly cannot think of a reason for me to dislike Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum. Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum worked for me; and the lightweight texture made it comfortable on my skin. The results of exfoliation may not be as obvious as the Sukari Babyfacial, but still effective for my skin.

 

My Verdict on Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum is one of my favourite chemical exfoliants. It’s effective and the lightweight texture feels very comfortable on my skin.

 

 Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50

 

Review of Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50

 

 

Biologique Recherche is a luxury French beauty brand that’s achieved cult favourite status for its skincare products, especially its exfoliant Lotion P50.

 

The brand was started by husband and wife team, Yvan and Josette Allouche in the 1970’s. Yvan Allouche, a biologist, formulated Biologuique Recherche’s the legendary Lotion P50 for his wife, Josette Allouche, a physiotherapist. Yvan created this exfoliant to be a gentle one for everyday use; and replace harsher exfoliants that were in vogue in the 70’s. According to the brand’s website, the ‘P’ stands for peeling and the ‘50’ for 50 days for an effective exfoliating process. The Lotion P50 prototype would prove to be a hit among the clients of Biologique Recherche.

 

One of the controversial ingredients in the original formulation of Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50 was phenol. Following the ban of the use of phenol in Europe, Yvan and Josette’s son, Dr Phillipe Allouche reformulated the original Lotion P50 (now referred to as ‘1970’) to replace phenol with AHAs and BHA. Biologuique Recherche’s original P50 Lotion has also been diversified to suit different skin types. There’s the regular Lotion P50; P50V (milder strength), P50W (for sensitive skin), and the newest P50 PIGM for reduced hyperpigmentation.

 

For this review, I’m using the original Biologuique Recherche P50 Lotion.

 

Type of product:

Leave on toner/ lotion

 

Types of acid(s) in Biologique Recherche Lotion P50’s ingredient list:

• AHA: Lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid

• PHA: Gluconolactone

• BHA: salicylic acid

 

Notable Ingredients in Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

• Anti-inflammatory: Niacinamide

• Plant extracts (anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects): Cochlearia Armoracia Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Oil

 

Biologique Recherche is also well known for its spa services in Europe. This is what the flagship spa in Paris looks like.

   

The Good About Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 came with high expectations- its cult favourite reputation, rave reviews (“game changer” and “holy grail” are just of the terms used to describe Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 in online reviews) and hefty price tag.

 

It’s a lightweight serum; that sinks into my skin very quickly. The notorious stench of Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 was absent; it had a bit of a chemical smell to it; but nothing offensive.

 

Results were a bit slow with this- in about 3 weeks. Exfoliating results were very mild even at the 3 week mark.  I could see that my skin was a little brighter and felt smoother. However, there were no visible improvements in comedones and dark spots. I did not experience any side effects such as hypersensitivity, dryness or redness.

 

The Bad About Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

Although I could see some results; they were underwhelming for me, especially at this price point. Perhaps this was too gentle for my skin.

 

My Verdict on Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

Underwhelming, expensive and overrated face acid. I’ve had better results at more affordable prices.

     

the inkey list pha toner review

The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner

   

Review of The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner

 

The Inkey List is a UK based skincare brand founded in 2018 by Colette Laxton and Mark Curry. Both founders of The Inkey List met when they worked at Boots, a pharmacy chain in the UK. Laxton was in branding and marketing; and Curry was a buying manager.

 

Both Laxton and Curry left Boots to work on startups before reconnecting in 2017. Inspired by brands such as The Ordinary; which revolutionised the skincare market by creating quality, consumer centric and straightforward approaches to beauty products, the duo created The Inkey List. The brand name is a play on the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list, a system for listing skincare ingredients adopted by many countries. I’ve previously shared my review of some of The Inkey Lists products in this blogpost The Inkey List Skincare Review & Ingredients Decoded.

 

Type of product:

Leave on toner

 

Types of acid(s) in The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner ingredient list:

• PHA: Gluconolactone 3%

• AHA: Citric acid

 

Notable Ingredients in The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner

• Moisturiser: Propanediol, glycerin

• Anti-inflammatory: Niacinamide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Aloe vera)

 

The Good About The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner

The Inkey List’s PHA toner is very, very gentle on the skin. There is no stinging or skin irritation. I also like that it contains 3% niacinamide which further reduces any risk of irritation for users with sensitive skin. The Inkey List’s PHA toner did make my skin feel just a little smoother and cleaner after using it for about 3 weeks.

 

The Bad About The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner

Too mild and gentle for me.

 

My Verdict on The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner

The Inkey List’s PHA toner is a very gentle exfoliant that’s better for people with sensitive skin or users new to acids. A plus point for The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner is its affordability.

 

If you have acne or are already using AHAs or BHAs with no issues, you can skip this.

     

 Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow

   

Review of Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow

 

Est. Lab is a homegrown brand by the Estetica Group, which owns the Estetica chain of beauty salons in Singapore and skincare brands such as Heure Beauty.

 

The brand is also the first beauty brand to collaborate with Singapore’s leading research agency, A*Star. According to A*Star’s press release, the partnership has yielded an evaluation tool called SkAI (Skin Analytics and Ingredients) matrix for the development of Est. Lab’s skincare products. I was not able to locate more information about this collaboration and SkAI matrix, but I am excited to see how this shapes new releases from Est. Lab.

 

Type of product:

Leave on serum

 

Types of acid(s) in Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow ingredient list:

• PHA: Gluconolactone 10%

 

Notable Ingredients in Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow

• Moisturiser: Propanediol, glycerin

• Anti-inflammatory: Cucurbita Pyepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract

• Antioxidant: Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

• Essential oil: Rosewood oil

 

The Good About Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow

Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow is a watery serum that dries fairly quickly. There was no irritation or burns with Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow on my skin.

 

The Bad About Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow

Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow felt tacky on my skin. Regardless of whichever moisturiser that I applied after using Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow, my skin was sticky.

 

My results with Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow were slow. I did not feel there was a convincing improvement for my skin; hyperpigmentation, comedones and dullness improved marginally.

 

My Verdict on Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow

Very gentle on the skin. Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow may be better suited for users with very sensitive skin. If you have normal to oily skin, Est. Lab LumiWhite 10% PHA Resurfacing Glow’s exfoliation may be too gentle.

     

The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution

   

Review of The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution

 

The Ordinary is a Canadian beauty brand founded by Brandon Truaxe in 2017. As part of the DECIEM group which owns other skincare brands such as NIOD, The Ordinary has grown to be one of the world’s biggest beauty brands. The Ordinary has been reshaping the beauty industry by making skincare more transparent and affordable for consumers. The brand also catapulted to fame in 2018 when Kim Kardashian publicly declared that The Ordinary’s Granactive Retinoid Serum as one of her personal favourite skincare products.

 

Related blogposts:

The Beginner’s Guide to Retinoids

5 Affordable & Popular Retinoid Serums Reviewed

 

The Ordinary is best known for creating products with single active ingredients such as niacinamide and vitamin C; and ensuring their active ingredients are of high quality and optimal concentrations. The brand is now headed by CEO and co-founder, Ms Nicola Kilner. In 2021, I spoke to Ms Kilner in an interview to gain her insights on the direction for DECIEM and her take on beauty trends. You can read the interview in Nicola Kilner, DECIEM CEO, on Disrupting Global Beauty Trends with The Ordinary and NIOD.

 

You can also read my review on the The Ordinary and NIOD’s skincare products in:

The Ordinary Skincare Review & Ingredients Decoded

NIOD Skincare Review & Ingredients Decoded

 

The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution

 

Type of product: 

Wash off mask

 

Types of acid(s) in The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution ingredient list:

• AHA: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid

• BHA: Salicylic acid

 

Notable Ingredients in The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution

• Anti-inflammatory: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water

• Moisturiser: Propanediol

 

The Good About The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution

Bringing on the shock factor for home exfoliation is The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution. This product went viral on TikTok in 2020- with 20 million videos hashtagged #TheOrdinaryPeeling Solution alone. The hype was generated in part due to the novelty created by the red hue of the peeling solution; and many rave reviews (with impressive before and after progress photos) from TikTokers. Trigger warning: I decided to give this a shot too, scroll down for what it looked like on me.

 

Related blogposts:

Slugging Your Face: the Latest TikTok Trend Explained

5 Worst TikTok Beauty & Skincare Trends to Avoid

 

The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution has often been referred to as an affordable dupe for Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial. Both brands are popular, global brands and have a very similar composition of AHAs and BHAs. Although The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution has a lower concentration of AHAs, its cost (approximately SGD$12) is much lower than Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial (approximately SGD$120).

 

The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution is very easy to use. The solution leaves a red hue so it’s easy to tell where you’ve missed a spot so that you don’t have to go overboard with applying The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution. After 10 minutes (and after you’ve filmed it for TikTok), it can be washed off with water.

 

This peeling solution packs a punch- after washing off The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution, my skin was slightly red for a day, but no irritation or dryness. After the redness faded, I could see that my skin was clearer and smoother. Whiteheads were also reduced.

     

I tried out The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution too! Albeit with a thin layer, cos that’s all that’s needed.

 

 

The Bad About The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution

Inevitably, I’ll have to compare The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution to Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial- and the former is no dupe for the latter. The results of exfoliation were more pronounced with Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial without the lingering redness. Nonetheless, The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution does its job, but I’d pick Drunk Elephant over this, even with the price difference.

 

Despite what the label says- I doubt that the AHA concentration is truly 30%. I’ve done chemical peels on myself at similar concentrations and the outcomes are vastly different. More likely, The Ordinary AHA 30% is from the sum of all the concentrations of different AHAs in the product, rather than a standalone acid of 30% concentration.

 

Lastly, The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% is not available in Singapore, although selected products from The Ordinary are available at Sephora Singapore. You’ll have to ship in The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2%.

 

My Verdict on The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution

The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution is a decent and affordable peeling solution. Not for beginners or sensitive skin types.

 

Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

 

Review of Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

 

One of the most popular face acids to emerge from 2020’s Covid lockdown along with The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution was this product: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel.

 

In 2000, US based dermatologist Dr Dennis Grossman founded his eponymous skincare brand with his wife, Carrie. The brand’s most popular product, the Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel was launched in 2002, when in-clinic chemical peels were in vogue. DIY- at home chemical peels were still a rarity but Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel proved to be a hit.

 

One of the core principles in Dr Dennis Gross’ skincare range is that gentleness is the key to good outcomes. In this interview with Buro Malaysia, Dr Dennis Gross shared his disagreement with the conventional notion that treatments or products that were harsh or incurred recovery time were better for the skin. Instead, he saw potential for a cosmeceutical range that could be used at home daily.

 

Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel consists of a 2 step process. The acid and the neutraliser come in separate sealed packs. After leaving the acid on your skin for 2 minutes, use the neutralise to terminate the peel. You can follow up with a moisturiser and sunscreen after neutralising the peel, but prefer to rinse with water and a cleanser after the last step.

 

Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel consists of a 2 step process. The acid and the neutraliser come in separate sealed packs.

   

Type of product:

Wash off mask

 

Types of acid(s) in Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel ingredient list:

• AHA: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid

• BHA

 

Notable Ingredients in Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

• Alcohol denatured: present as a solvent and anti-microbial agent; this can potentially cause the skin to become dry

• Plant extracts (antioxidants and anti-inflammatory): Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

• Vitamin C and derivatives: Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl palmitate

• Other antioxidants: Resveratrol, Tocopherol acetate

• Retinoids: Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol

 

Related blogposts:

Topical Vitamin C: One of the Best Ways to Protect Your Skin

The Beginner’s Guide to Starting Retinoids

5 Affordable & Popular Retinoids Reviewed

   

The Good About Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

First impression- I really like having a neutraliser with my chemical peels (at home and in the clinic) to terminate the acid peel precisely. The other leave on and more powerful acids in this review (such as Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial and The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution)- no neutraliser is provided and the user has to rinse off with water and/or facial cleanser. With the latter, the potential of unknowingly leaving behind acid could cause burns and irritation. When a neutraliser is provided, these risks with acid peels are reduced, making it safer for the user. Caveat: please do not exceed the recommended time frame for leaving the acid on your skin.

 

What I also like about Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel is that the acid and neutralise come in sealed sachets. This makes the procedure hygienic and controlled. It is also easy to use both the acid and neutraliser as they come in pre-soaked tissues to wipe on your skin.

 

True to Dr Dennis Grossman’s brand philosophy, Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel was very gentle on my skin. I did not experience any irritation, dryness or hypersensitivity with nightly use. I felt that my skin was a little smoother and brighter at about 3 weeks, but the outcomes were as pronounced as with Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial. Hyperpigmentation and fine lines remained the same.

 

The Bad About Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

It seemed odd that the brand recommends leaving the neutraliser on the face after the treatment is complete. That assumes that the neutraliser or end-product is suitable for that purpose. A look at the ingredient list reveals that the neutraliser contains retinoids (retinyl palmitate and retinol). Including retinoids to accelerate cell turnover and build collagen in the skin is a good idea. However, retinoids are unstable during the day. For this reason, I recommend using Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel in the night.

 

*Instructions for the product do not mention whether Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel should be used in the day or night.

 

The other issue is that the ingredients and pH in the neutraliser could potentially interfere with the other ingredients in the subsequent steps of your skincare regime. I prefer to rinse with water and a gentle facial cleanser after neutralising the acid to avoid these problems.

As Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel is a very gentle product- there is no instant or quick gratification with using it. I started to see results around the 3 week mark, but I was honestly hoping for more obvious results because of the good reviews and cost of the product. The cost of Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel is approximately SGD$140 for 30 treatments- so that works out to almost $5 a day to use this product.

 

My Verdict on Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

Safe, low risk of burns. Results were not as impressive as I had hoped for.

   

A summary of different types of acids in skincare. You can learn more in this Guide to Acids & Chemical Exfoliation.

 

Conclusion on my review of face acids

 

I hope that you found my review of popular face acids useful. I personally prefer using AHAs and BHAs at higher concentrations because of my skin type. PHAs are way too gentle on my skin for any visible changes.

 

In summary, I recommend the following:

• Normal to oily skin: Drunk Elephant’s TLC Sukari Babyfacial, The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2%

• Normal to dry skin: Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

 

Please always remember to moisturise and wear sunscreen daily. If you find that your skin is red, dry or hypersensitive after using face acids, it’s best to give your skin a break and let your skin barrier recover. You might find these related posts useful:

Sunscreen Reviews 2021

Sunscreen Reviews 2019

How to Repair Your Skin Barrier

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