Beauty of Joseon
17 September 2024
Following the huge success of its sunscreen in 2022, K-beauty brand, Beauty of Joseon, has returned with a sunscreen stick version of its viral sunscreen. Based on the viral success of its Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen (hailed as many on Reddit as THE best Korean sunscreen of 2022), will Beauty of Joseon be able to replicate the same success as its newly released sunscreen stick? Find out in my review of Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia in this blogpost.
Update Sept 2024: Beauty of Joseon has just released a new and improved sunscreen, and I’ve just shared my review and swatches in Review: New Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-fresh Rice + B5 sunscreen.
I was not a fan of the older sunscreen, and I’ve shared my review of the original sunscreen in Review: Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen.
Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia was released in January 2023. As shared in 8 Skincare Trends that Will Take Over 2023, sunscreens, especially Korean sunscreens and sunsticks, will be immensely popular this year.
For Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia release, the K-beauty company collaborated with Ramon Pagan, a cosmetic chemist and social media influencer better known as @glowbyramon on Instagram, TikTok and Youtube. According to his LinkedIn profile, Ramon has a Masters of Science in Cosmetic Sciences.
Unlike the Beauty of Joseon’s Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen and many other popular Korean sunscreens that are produced by Kolmar Korea; Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia is produced by CosMax. CosMax is one of the world’s biggest cosmetics manufacturers that provides original design manufacturing (ODM) for some of the world’s biggest cosmetic brands.
Ramon has briefly shared some insights into the roles he played in the design of Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia on Youtube. In the video, he has conveyed very clearly he wanted the sun stick to be inclusive and accessible to all; so he wanted the sunstick to be non-comedogenic, and free of ingredients that could be problematic for some users, such as niacinamide.
Related blogposts:
Niacinamide: A Versatile Ingredient Your Skin Will Thank You For
Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia is sold as a set with the brand’s Glow Drop Serum. I bought this set, called the Beauty of Joseon Glow + Sun Set, from Beauty of Joseon’s official e-shop on Lazada for SGD$33.00. This price was inclusive of delivery from South Korea.
Sunscreen coverage of Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia:
• UVB: SPF 50+ •
UVA: PA ++++
Sunscreen filters in Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia
• Chemical filters: Uvinul A Plus, Tinosorb S, Uvinul T 150, Polysilicone-15
Notable ingredients or features in Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+ Camelia
• Turmeric
Turmeric is a herb native to Indian and Southeast Asia that is used in traditional medicines. The main active ingredient in turmeric is cucurmin, which gives the herb its characteristic yellow colour 1. In his video introducing Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick, Ramon explains that cucurmin has some benefits in lightening dark spots, based on very small studies. Cucurmin is used in traditional medicine for a myriad of purposes including reducing inflammation and skin lightening2,3.
• Mugwort
Mugwort is a herb that is also known as Artemisia Princeps. It is an ingredient that is trending in Korean skincare. Mugwort may have anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory potential on the skin based on cell and animal studies4,5. Clinical evidence on this mugwort in humans is very limited though.
• Camellia
Fans of luxury brand Chanel might be familiar with the flower of this plant. Camellia Japonica or Japanese camellia extracts contain numerous compounds including phenolic acids, which have antioxidant benefits6,7.
• Centella Asiatica
Centella Asiastica is better known as Cica. Cica is another popular ingredient in Korean skincare and you can learn more about the science and benefits in Cica in Skincare: Centella Asiatica Explained.
• Green tea
Green tea or Camellia sinensis is another popular ingredient in Asian skincare. A review of green tea in dermatology in Benefits of Topical Green Tea.
• Hyaluronic acid
Another familiar ingredient in moisturisers, face masks and serums. Hyaluronic acid’s benefits have been covered in Everything You Need to Know about Hyaluronic Acid.
• Neem
Neem is a plant that is also known as Indian Lilac. The neem plant is native to India and Iran. In dermatology, preliminary research shows that neem may improve wound healing due to its inhibitory effects on bacteria8.
The Good about Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia
Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia is a broad spectrum sunstick with high protection against UVA & UVB rays. The brand has shared the results of their sunscreen tests performed in Korea and Spain on its website. The sunstick feels light on the skin; unlike the heavy, waxy feel of some other sunsticks. There was no white cast on my skin. The finish of Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia is almost matte; with a very slight sheer. Most other sunscreen sticks I’ve tried tend to leave a somewhat waxy, shiny finish. Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia is distinctly matte in comparison.
Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia goes on nicely on my skin when used to reapply sunscreen. It did not cause any irritation or acne outbreaks; and it did not pill on my skin.
Related blogposts:
How to Prevent Sunscreen from Pilling
Is Makeup Causing Your Acne? Acne Cosmetica Explained.
The Bad about Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia
I’m quite perplexed at the choice of turmeric in Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia. In his Youtube video explaining Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia, Ramon lists turmeric as the first non UV filter ingredient in this product but does not give a clear reason for the choice of this ingredient. He shares that turmeric has *some* effects in lightening hyperpigmentation; but then concedes that the evidence for this benefit is very little. According to Beauty of Joseon’s website, “ It (the sunstick) created after an extensive collaboration by meticulously going through all the processes that fall under BOJ’s brand philosophy of Modern Hanbang skin care”. However, rurmeric is also from India and Southeast Asia; and is not an ingredient that is considered hanbang or a common ingredient for traditional Korean beauty products. Hence the appearance of Turmeric in Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia is puzzling to me.
If we were to use Ramon’s rationale for including turmeric in Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia i.e. its hyperpigmentation lightening benefits (with little evidence)- wouldn’t it be logical to use other active ingredients that have better evidence for lightening dark spots like vitamin C?
Related blogposts:
What are Active Ingredients in Skincare? How do They Work?
How to Lighten Hyperpigmentation & Dark Spots with Skincare
Vitamin C in Skincare: One of the Best Ways to Protect Your Skin
Although Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+ Camelia glides on easily, the product transfer to the skin is very, very little. 2 glides are not enough to get enough Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+ Camelia on my skin. I need about 3-4 glides to get a sufficient transfer. And when it transfer, it does so in clumps. It feels clumsy using Beauty of Joseon sun stick. As with most sunscreen sticks, it is hard to get estimate the amount of sunscreen that is applied.
Verdict on Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia
A sunstick with a broad spectrum and adequate protection against UV rays. Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia feels light on the skin and has an almost matte finish and does not pill. Applying Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia requires a number of glides on the skin due to the poor product transfer, hence I prefer to use it to reapply my sunscreen; instead of my actual sunscreen layer.
All in all, I’d recommend using Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick : Mugwort+Camelia to reapply sunscreen. The matte finish would make this sunstick also suitable for users with oily or acne prone skin. If you enjoyed this blogpost, you might these reviews of Korean sunscreens- Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturising Sunscreen review and Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen review useful.
Related blogposts:
5 Skincare Ingredients for Acne & Oily Skin
All about Acne: Types, Causes, Treatments & Tips for Prevention
References:
1. Turmeric: A condiment, cosmetic and cure. Gopinath and Karthikeyan. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2018 Jan-Feb;84(1):16-21.
2. Curcuma aeruginosa Roxb. essential oil slows hair-growth and lightens skin in axillae; a randomised, double blinded trial. Srivilai et al. Phytomedicine. 2017 Feb 15;25:29-38.
3. Dermatological effects of Curcuma species: a systematic review. Barbelho et al. Clin Exp Dermatol . 2021 Jul;46(5):825-833.
4. Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Artemisia Leaf Extract in Mice with Contact Dermatitis In Vitro and In Vivo. Yun et al. Mediators Inflamm. 2016; 2016: 8027537.
5. Artemisia princeps Inhibits Growth, Biofilm Formation, and Virulence Factor Expression of Streptococcus mutans. Yang et al. J Med Food. 2019 Jun;22(6):623-630.
6. Anti-photoaging capability of antioxidant extract from Camellia japonica leaf. Mizutani and Masaki. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.
7. Camellia japonica: A phytochemical perspective and current applications facing its industrial exploitation/ Pereira et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Mar 30; 13: 100258.
8. Neem in Dermatology: Shedding Light on the Traditional Panacea. Gopinath and Karthikeyan. Indian J Dermatol. 2021 Nov-Dec; 66(6): 706.