Beauty Trends
30 December 2022
Welcoming 2023 with a new post on skincare and beauty trends that we can look forward to in 2023! 2022 was a wild ride- skincare ingredients such as retinol and fermented skincare refined supreme and so did skincare-infused makeup. Beauty trends were also driven by viral TikTok videos; and some were questionable(such as sunscreen contouring and buccal fat removal); but we also saw derm- approved trends such as skin cycling and slugging in the limelight. What will 2023 bring to the sphere of skincare? Here’s what we can look forward to seeing in the year to come.
Related blogposts:
What is Skin Cycling? The Derm Approved TikTok Trend
Slugging Your Face: the Latest TikTok Trend Explained
Retinol Serums & Creams Review 2023
Is the use of skincare exclusive to females? Of course not. But for years, the domain of skincare has exclusively targeted females; and more specifically, Caucasian females, undeserving the diversity of users, including minority races, males and the LGBTQ community.
This singular vision of beauty and skincare is now making way for inclusiveness and diversity. Brands are now catering product offerings specifically to these underserved groups- be it through their product launches, formulations and/or packaging. Besides the commercial benefit of meeting the demands of this neglected group of consumers, brands stand to gain from creating an image that celebrates diversity and inclusiveness; instead of having a narrow definition of beauty and target audience.
Brands that are moving towards appealing to males and the LGBTQ audience have tweaked their formulations, scents and packaging to be less feminine and more gender neutral. Brands such as Aesop and MAC have released unisex skincare and makeup ranges respectively. Similarly, fragrance houses such as Le Labo, Jo Malone and Tom Ford have created colognes and perfumes that appeal to both genders. Breaking away from traditional offerings for females are also beauty brands like Harry Style’s Pleasing, which launched a set of nail polishes in September 2022 that sold out online.
As beauty and skincare products in the traditional sense are being redefined, at heart is a pertinent question- do different genders require different skincare products? Are the skin of males and females fundamentally different?
The answer is- no. The anatomy and physiology of female and male skin is largely similar. There are however, a few, but not significant, differences that distinguish between male and female skin. Males are reported to have higher sebum production and larger pore size1. Skin thickness between males and females are similar, except for the forehead, where men have thicker skin than older females2. These differences can be attributed to the increased levels of androgens in males.
So while skincare may be moving towards non-binary, gender neutral releases; this trend has been a long time coming. Males and females have very similar skin; and products that are designed solely for males and females are based on artificial, marketing led reasons.
Sunscreen use in 2022 has skyrocketed. The global sunscreen market is approximated to be worth USD$14.4 billion in 2022; with an estimated growth rate of 5% from 2022 to 20323. This growth has been attributed to growing awareness of the harmful effects of unprotected UV exposure3.
In 2022, some of the most popular sunscreens were K-beauty sunscreens that went viral on social media, including TikTok and Instagram. These sunscreens from Korean brands such as Beauty of Joseon, Round Lab and IsnTree have enjoyed astronomical growth in sales globally and have helped the K-beauty industry to recover from the aftermath of the Korean sunscreen controversy that damaged the credibility of Korean sunscreens.
Related blogposts:
Can Asian Sunscreens Be Trusted? The Purito Controversy Explained
These popular Korean sunscreens have hit upon a winning formula with their sunscreens that are more fluid and leave no white cast. By using newer generation chemical sunscreen filters, these K-beauty sunscreens have overcome the problems that are classically associated with mineral filters- thick, clumsy pasty sunscreens that leave a white cast. These new Korean sunscreen releases are also very affordable and readily accessible at drug stores, giving European and luxury sunscreens a run for their money. My personal recommendation if you’d like to try one of these newer Korean sunscreen is Round Lab’s Birch Juice Moisturising Sunscreen that’s approximately SGD$25 for a tube.
Related blogpost:
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics Sunscreen
Riding on the success of Korean sunscreens will be the growth of sunscreen sticks or sunscreen roll-ons. These balms contain sunscreen filters that allow the user to glide on their skin, making sunscreen use and reapplication convenient. (This army here personally uses AHC’s sunscreen stick, the same one used by J-Hope of BTS)
Contributing to this growing popularity of sunscreen sticks was the “untact beauty” trend in Korea that took place during 2019 to 2021. A portmanteau of the words “un” and “contact”, “untact beauty” refers to the use of beauty products without physical contact. One of the most popular products to arise from the “untact beauty” growth in Seoul was multibalms that allowed users to apply products over the lips, face, neck and hair. One of the breakout K-beauty products of 2022 was KAHI’s Wrinkle Bounce Multi-Balm, a multi use moisturising balm. Yearly sales figure of KAHI’s Wrinkle Bounce Multi-Balm have crossed more than 10 million a year; even before the balm started getting featured in hit K-dramas like Extraordinary Attorney Woo as well in the music videos of Ava Max and Doja Cat.
Related blogpost:
Review: KAHI Wrinkle Bounce Multi Balm
Are there toxic ingredients lurking in your skincare? Are you potentially irritating your skin, disrupting your hormone levels or increasing your risk of cancer with your beauty products? This danger seems to be the problem with skincare, hence the introduction of “clean skincare” that is safe for use on your skin.
In 2022, four of the top five trending beauty brands over Black Friday and Cyber Monday in 2022 were clean skin-care brands, according to Shopify4. The clean beauty market is expected to grow annually at 13.1% from 2022 to 2028; to reach a market value of USD$15.29 billion by 202815.
This growth in demand for the clean skincare products has been attributed to a multitude of factors including the increasingly conscious behaviour of consumers, increase access to self-education materials and marketing campaigns that “clean beauty” is safer or more eco-friendly5.
“Clean skincare” or “clean beauty” however, still lacks a regulated, standardised definition, despite the growing interest in this category of products. Commonly regarded as products that are devoid of “toxic”, “unsafe” or “chemicals”, “clean skincare” products are presumed to be safer for users. Fans and clean beauty companies will point to the lack of regulations surrounding the beauty industry as a reason these clean beauty companies champion the safety of consumers with safer skincare by using clean skincare. However, it is precisely this relatively lack of regulation surrounding the beauty industry that has a lack of a standardised definition of “clean beauty” and what it entails and its enforcement.
The loose definition of “clean beauty” has led to varied standards across different skincare and beauty brands. Some clean brands such as Jones Road Beauty, the product range contains products that are free from ingredients that the brand believes are harmful, such as sulfates, parabens and phthalates. Brands such as Westmen Atelier, their clean beauty products extend beyond excluding supposedly harmful ingredients to include measures for a cleaner environment such as using recyclable containers and packaging and using energy from renewable resources. For other brands like Drunk Elephant, “clean beauty” also means being “cruelty-free”; so Drunk Elephant does not conduct tests of their products and ingredients on animals.
With so much ambiguity, the onus falls on retailers and beauty companies to be transparent about their “clean beauty” standards. One of criticisms levelled against the clean beauty movement is the fear mongering and perpetuation of the conspiratorial view that skincare contains toxic ingredients, so buy “clean skincare” to protect yourself. This mistrust is often based on misleading claims or findings from studies taken out of context. For example, products that claim to be “chemical- free” or contain only natural compounds often neglect that these, natural plant based ingredients contain dozens of other compounds, all of which have a chemical composition. Even water, H20, is a chemical with a chemical composition.
Leveraging on the popularity of “clean skincare” is the rise of “cleanical skincare”. A portmanteau of the words “clean” and “clinical” skincare, “cleanical skincare” is the combination of promises of “clean skincare” and the premise of skincare backed by science and innovation. While having “clean skincare” and skincare backed by clinical studies are not mutually exclusive, “cleanical skincare” is a niche for skincare connoisseurs. Some “cleanical” brands are the brainchild of doctors, like Dr Augustinus Bader’s eponymous clean skincare line. The luxury brand contains its proprietary TFC8, a protein complex borne from Dr Bader’s research into healing compounds for burnt skin. The Augustinus Bader brand has enjoyed phenomenal growth globally in 2022, and was one of the few beauty brands to receive USD$1 billion valuation6.
Retinol may already be familiar- but retinol will continue to reign in 2023. When it comes to diminishing signs of ageing such as hyperpigmentation and fine lines; and reducing acne; few active ingredients are as well established as retinol. Although the initial side effects of retinol users (retinoid dermatitis and burns) may seem like a deterrent, 2022 has seen innovative releases to overcome this side effect. 2022 has seen the gentler retinol derivatives and novel drug delivery systems such as encapsulation to become more accessible to users. 2023 will very likely see the this trend continue, with more creative delivery systems for retinol.
Related blogposts:
Retinol Serums & Creams Review 2023
Retinol Alternatives: Are They As Good As Retinol?
As with retinols, retinol alternatives will also be big in 2023. Also known as phyto-retinol, these plant derived retinols claim to be as effective but gentler on the skin than retinol. Of all the retinol alternatives, bakuchiol is the most well known of them all. Bakuchiol seems to act on similar cellular pathways as retinols; and preliminary studies suggest that Bakuchiol is a promising alternative to retinol. For a deep dive into Bakuchiol, please read Is Bakuchiol An Effective Retinol Alternative?
The trend of a minimal, simplistic skincare routine that surged in popularity during the Covid-19 pandemic looks set to also continue into 2023. The premise of skinmimalism is the use of fewer, but necessary skincare products to achieve healthier skin. This stripped down, directed approach to skincare offers a quicker, efficient and more affordable regime has led to a decline in its antithesis: the complicated, laborious multi-step skincare regime popularised by Korean and Japanese beauty routines.
As patients become better educated about skincare and how to optimise their choices;the approach to choosing skincare based on active ingredients have also become more popular. Some of the active ingredients that trended in 2022 were retinol and niacinamide; and this has led to numerous beauty companies riding on the popularity of these ingredients with new releases. If you’re looking for a minimal approach to skincare, I would recommend reading this post 3 Essential Steps for Healthy Skin.
One TikTok beauty trend that exploded in popularity in 2022 based on skinimalism was Skin Cycling. Made popular by US based dermatologist Dr Whitney Bowe. As of December 2022, there were 204.1 million videos of skin cycling related videos on TikTok. Skin cycling described a simple and straightforward four night cycle of exfoliation and retinoid use followed by two nights of resting the skin barrier, without complicated skincare steps. By rotating between these stages, the skin renewal and repair are progressed cyclically for optimal skin health. You can learn how to skin cycle and modify your skin cycle to suit your skin type in What Is Skin Cycling? The Derm Approved TikTok Trend.
Related blogposts:
A Complete Guide to Acids in Skincare & Chemical Exfoliation
Retinol Serums & Creams Review 2023
Retinol Alternatives: Are They As Good As Retinol?
In 2022, skin barrier content was watched 1.5 billion times on TikTok. The topic of skin barrier rose in popularity in 2022 and will continue to grow in 2023; with the continuing popularity of minimalism and the use of high strength active ingredients.
The skin barrier function is the fundamental function of the skin to protect against transepidermal water loss and harmful toxins and microbes. Over frequent use of high strength active ingredients such as exfoliating acids, retinoids and physical scrubs can damage the skin barrier; leaving the skin vulnerable to hypersensitivity and dryness. Learning to protect the skin barrier is key for individuals to use or cycle between active ingredients successfully for best outcomes of their skincare- a healthy skin barrier allows the user to tolerate using active ingredients; however a compromised skin barrier is at risk of getting inflamed or infected.
To get started on a healthier skin barrier, How to Repair Your Skin Barrier will share with you skincare ingredients to look out for.
One of 2022’s top trending beauty product was KAHI Wrinkle Bounce Multi Balm, the stick balm that sold more than 12 million sticks in a year. This multi-balm contains salmon PDRN and Jeju origin oil; and can be glided on the user’s face, neck, hands and hair to reapply moisturiser on the go.
Related blogpost:
Review: KAHI Wrinkle Bounce Multi Balm
Such multi-purpose beauty products that offer multiple benefits have been popular for simplifying users’ Skinminalism routines. For sunscreens that offer added antioxidant benefits, moisturisers that act as primers…etc, it translates to lesser purchases needed for consumers. Some other examples of viral multi-tasking skincare products of 2022 are Rare Beauty’s Soft Pinch Liquid Blush (a richly pigmented liquid blush that doubles as lip colour), Dior’s Lip Glow Oil (a moisturising lip oil that also colours the lips), Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew drops (a moisturising serum with a primer like finish) and Ultra Violette’s Queen Screen SPF 50+ (a sunscreen with a dewy, makeup like finish).
Related blogpost:
Ultra Violette Queen Screen SPF 50+ review
These days, you havent achieved celebrity status unless you have your own beauty line. In a saturated skincare market with endless products available for consumers comes a group of non-chemists, non-doctors and non-phamarcists who are ready to offer you even more options- celebrities. In 2022, celebrities such as Brad Pitt, Kim Kardashian, Hailey Bieber and Jennifer Anniston, each receiving mixed reception.
In September 2022, actor Brad Pitt released his skincare line, Le Domaine. The skincare line is a tie-up between Pitt and the Perrin family of organic wine farmers in France. Inspired by Pitt’s love for wines, Le Domaine range contained antioxidants from grapes harvested in Chateau Miraval. The skincare range- touted to be genderless, vegan and eco-friendly- had a rocky start to its launch. The actor has not publicly spoken about skincare before; and has no background in dermatology and cosmetic chemistry. At the initial press interviews for the launch of Le Domaine, Pitt revealed his lack of skincare routine and know-how in skincare in an interview with Vogue magazine. So far, reception of the very pricey skincare line- products cost from SGD$114 onwards for a facial cleanser- have been lacklustre.
Rhode Skin by model and self professed skincare junkie, Hailey Bieber has met with warmer reception. Released in June 2022 by Hailey Bieber, Rhode Skin consists of Dr Ron Robinson, a cosmetic chemist, and Dr Dhaval Bhanusali, a dermatologist, on its advisory panel. The model, known for her lit from within complexion and signature “glazed donut look” of plumped, moisturised and luminous skin, launched Rhode Skin with only three products in its line- Peptide Glazing Fluid, Barrier Restore Cream Peptide Lip Treatment. Hailed as the key to Bieber’s dewy and luminous skin, this three product line up, Rhode Skincare sold out in 10 minutes when it was first launched.
The skincare market is a lucrative one, and there will continue to be celebrities to capitalise their star power and fan base for yet another celebrity backed skincare line. Are any of these star backed brands truly outstanding? Star power aside, none of these brands have made any groundbreaking difference to the existing skincare options for users. Clean, genderless, sustainable or backed by science? It’s all been done before. Not since the launch of Rihanna’s Fenty have we seen anything different to change the options or conversations about beauty. But I’m sure in 2023 and the years to come, this won’t be stopping celebrities from riding on their fame to launch their own beauty lines.
References:
1. Endocrinologic control of the development and activity of the human sebaceous gland. Pochi and Strauss. J Invest Dermatol. 1974 Mar;62(3):191-201.
2. In vivo data of epidermal thickness evaluated by optical coherence tomography: effects of age, gender, skin type, and anatomic site. Gambichler et al. J Dermatol Sci. 2006 Dec;44(3):145-52.
3. https://www.factmr.com/report/69/sun-screen-market
4. https://www.fastcompany.com/90823556/clean-beauty-trends-2023
5. https://brandessenceresearch.com/consumer-goods/clean-beauty-market-size
6. https://www.globalcosmeticsnews.com/augustinus-bader-becomes-billion-dollar-brand/
