Korean skincare
19 July 2024
Salmon sperm facials and salmon DNA skincare are trending once again, with Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Anniston were reported to have undergone this injected into their faces. If you thought the shock factor in snail mucin and bee venom skincare
Salmon sperm and salmon DNA fragments (better known as PDRN) have been popular in Asia as an injectable treatment for its collagen building benefits. Originating in Korea, salmon sperm first made waves in aesthetic treatments and facials before getting a second wave as one of Korean’s trending skincare ingredients.
Since Kim Kardashian had a salmon sperm facial, should you too? Afterall, the reality star has admitted the lengths that she would go to for her looks. She famously told The New York Times in 2022, “If you told me that I literally had to eat poop every single day and I would look younger, I might,” Here’s a look at the science and studies on salmon sperm and polynucleotide skincare and facials in this review.
When Kim Kardashian spoke of getting salmon sperm injected into her face on her reality show in July 2024, she left little details and a lot to the imagination of her audience. Salmon sperm treatments and facials in Singapore and Asia are a lot less squirmy.
The active ingredients in salmon sperm are fragments of DNA called polynucleotides (PN). All living things have polynucleotides and DNA. You’ll notice the terms salmon sperm, polynucleotides (PN) and Polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN) used interchangeably.
Both PN and PDRN are DNA fragments but with some biochemical differences. PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide)contains a mixture of nucleotides, while PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) specifically consists of deoxyribonucleotides.
Salmon sperm containing products such as Rejuran Healer, which is one of the most popular treatments in Korea, contain a mixture of polynucleotides (PN) and Polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN).
Related blogposts:
Rejuran Healer: What You Should Know Before Getting It
Yes, to some extent. Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) is obtained from the sperm of Oncorhynchus mykiss (Salmon trout) or Oncorhynchus keta (Chum Salmon) sperm DNA1,2. However, polynucleotides (PN) are extracted from the reproductive organs of salmon or trout fish or sturgeons1-3. These extracts are subjected to rigorous purification processes that remove any antigens or proteins that might cause immune reactions.
Salmon sperm facials and skincare are said to boost skin’s regeneration and build collagen, leading to improved skin hydration, plumpness, texture, and wrinkles. These benefits of salmon sperm facial and skincare have been attributed to the DNA content in the products. I’ll examine these claims.
Polydeoxynucleotides have been found to facilitate tissue repair, wound healing, improved blood flow and reduce inflammation primarily by binding to A2A receptors in cells4,5.
If you’d like to geek out on the studies and data (like me) here’s a look at the other postulated mechanisms of PDRN:
1) Improving microcirculation via process called angiogenesis6. PN causes increased expression of a growth factor called Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF) that is important for the growth of blood vessels- the highway for oxygen and nutrients for cells to proliferate and repair themselves.
2) Anti-inflammatory effects on tissues6,7. Inflammation generates free radicals which causes damage to cells. If these damaged cells are unable to repair themselves, the cells will be removed via apoptosis, our body’s natural repair system. Through multiple mechanisms and cytokines, PN has been shown to have an anti-inflammatory effect and even reduce scar formation.
3) Improves skin texture and elasticity- collagen synthesis is enhanced by fibroblast activation6,6. This also results in treatment of fine lines in the skin.
4) Tissue repair and wound healing-PN salvages DNA and RNA fragments from damaged cells to incorporate them into new DNA for normal cell proliferation and recover6.
5) Protection from UV damage- UV rays from the sun cause damage to our DNA and this accelerates signs of aging. PN has been shown to enhance DNA repair and clearance of toxic by-products of UV-damaged cells6.
These are some recent published trials and clinical studies on salmon sperm and polynucleotide treatments in the field of dermatology:
• A randomised double‐blinded, split‐face trial involving 27 subjects in Korea conducted in 2022 found that subjects injected with PN had greater improvement in pore volume and roughness compared to the controls who were injected with hyaluronic acid9. However, these improvements did not reach statistical significance concerning global esthetic improvement scale, visual analog scale, or dermal density9.
• A randomised, double blinded controlled trial of 44 subjects in 2018 found polynucleotide injections and fractional laser resulted in improved wound healing and scar outcomes after thyroid surgery10.
• In 2016, a case series of 5 patients with polynucleotide injections (Rejuran) in Korea showed improvements in their pore size, skin thickness, tone, melanin levels, wrinkles, and sagging11.
Pertinent to this review is that salmon DNA fragments were injected directly into the skin of the subjections (with and without laser treatments).
Published studies and trials on applying salmon sperm and DNA fragments on intact skin so far are lacking- although there is a brief abstract that mentioned that salmon DNA reduced transepidermal water loss in the skin12.
To draw conclusions on applying salmon sperm or polynucleotides on intact skin (i.e. facials and skincare) from studies on injected polynucleotides directly into the dermis would be a stretch. The absorption and pharmacodynamics of applying salmon sperm products are not the same as polynucleotides injections. One of the obstacles to absorption of polynucleotides and polydeoxyribonuclotides applied to the skin is the large molecular size of these DNA molecules-one study places the size of polydeoxyribonucleotides with molecular weights between 50 and 1500 KDa6. The large molecular size is a deterrent for absorption through the intact skin barrier to facilitate the cellular changes mentioned above113.
However this does not mean that salmon sperm and polynucleotide facials and skincare alike are useless. Similar to large protein molecules such as collagen, these DNA molecules can function as humectants to moisturise the skin’s surface. This moisturising benefit of salmon sperm and polynucleotides can account the glow, plumpness and improvement in fine wrinkles when applied to the skin.
Related blogpost:
• A close contender to salmon DNA fragments is exosomes. Exosomes are sacs of biologically active molecules (e.g. DNA fragments, lipids and proteins) secreted by cells for cellular communication. In dermatology, exosomes are also being explored for skin rejuvenation and hair growth concerns. More about the science and studies of exosomes in Exosome Skin Treatments: the Buzzword in Dermatology.
• Controversial, but platelet rich plasma therapy is another regenerative treatment also popularised by Kim Kardashian for her skin. Also known as Vampire facials, this is not without its risks and is banned in Singapore. Learn more about the science and controversies in Vampire Facials and Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP).
• Injectable PN and PDRN. In Singapore and Korea, PN and PDRN are used as skin rejuvenating treatments as part of skinboosters for improved skin hydration, reduction in pore size and firmer skin texture. These can also be used to reduce wrinkles and depth of acne scars. Some of the brands of injectable salmon sperm are Rejuran Healer, Plinest, PN Cell and Fillroad. Learn more in Rejuran Healer: What You Should Know Before Getting It and Skinboosters/水光针: All You Need to Know About It
Related blogposts:
Rejuran Healer vs Skinboosters
Acne: Types, Causes, Treatments and Tips for Prevention
Is the salmon sperm facial hype by Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Anniston real? Can salmon sperm boost skin’s regeneration and build collagen? The jury’s still out there on applying these DNA molecules on an intact skin barrier through facials and skincare. The evidence is more encouraging so far is the introduction of the salmon sperm ingredients through injections or with ablative lasers to overcome the skin barrier. Until more published data, and more developments in improving the drug delivery of these large molecules, I’d personally stick to more tried and tested therapies and active ingredients- retinoids for collagen building, hyaluronic acid for hydration and ceramides for the skin barrier.
Related blogposts:
The Beginner’s Guide to Starting Retinoids
Everything You Need to Know About Hyaluronic Acid
How to Repair Your Skin Barrier
References:
1. Skin boosters: Definitions and varied classifications. Yi et al. Skin Res Technol. 2024 Mar; 30(3): e13627.
2. Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use of PDRN. Squadrito et al. Front Pharmacol. 2017 Apr 26:8:224.
3. Applications of Marine Organism-Derived Polydeoxyribonucleotide: Its Potential in Biomedical Engineering. Kim et al. Mar Drugs. 2021 May 22;19(6):296.
4. Adenosine receptor stimulation by polynucleotides (PDRN) reduces inflammation in experimental periodontitis. Bitto et al. J Clin Periodontol. 2013 Jan;40(1):26-32.
5. Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN): a safe approach to induce therapeutic angiogenesis in peripheral artery occlusive disease and in diabetic foot ulcers. Altavilla et al. Cardiovasc Hematol Agents Med Chem. 2009 Oct;7(4):313-21.
6. Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use of PDRN. Francesco Squadrito, Alessandra Bitto, Natasha Irrera, Gabriele Pizzino, Giovanni Pallio, Letteria Minutoli, Domenica Altavilla. Front Pharmacol. 2017; 8: 224. Published online 2017 Apr 26.
7. Scar Prevention and Enhanced Wound Healing Induced by Polydeoxyribonucleotide in a Rat Incisional Wound-Healing Model. Jeong W, Yang CE, Roh TS, Kim JH, Lee JH, Lee WJ. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Aug 3;18(8). pii: E1698. doi: 10.3390/ijms18081698.
8. Polydeoxyribonucleotides enhance the proliferation of human skin fibroblasts: involvement of A2 purinergic receptor subtypes. Thellung S, Florio T, Maragliano A, Cattarini G, Schettini G. Life Sci. 1999;64(18):1661-74.
9. Comparison of the effects of polynucleotide and hyaluronic acid fillers on periocular rejuvenation: a randomized, double-blind, split-face trial. Lee et al. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022 Feb;33(1):254-260.
10. Preventive effect of polynucleotide on post-thyroidectomy scars: A randomized, double-blinded, controlled trial. Kim et al. Lasers Surg Med. 2018 Mar 25.
11. Long-chain polynucleotide filler for skin rejuvenation: efficacy and complications in five patients. Park et al. Dermatol Ther. 2016 Jan-Feb;29(1):37-40.
12. Effect of DNA from salmon milt on human skin conditions. Hsu et al. Journal of Cosmetic Chemists (SCCJ), Volume 43, No. 2. 2009
13. The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs. Bos and Meinardi. Exp Dermatol. 2000 Jun;9(3):165-9.
