Acids
11 January 2025
We all know the key to brighter, smoother skin is through regular exfoliation to remove dead, dull skin and decongest clogged pores. However, using chemical and physical exfoliants regularly, especially in dry and sensitive skin, can damage the skin barrier. Lipohydroxy acid is an active ingredient that seems to give the best of both worlds- gentle exfoliation and healthier skin. This gentle acid emerged in 2024 as a potent active ingredient for exfoliation and skin barrier; and its popularity growth has been most marked in K-beauty. Here’s all you need to know about lipohydroxy acid.
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Lipohydroxy Acid (LHA) is an exfoliating acid that renews the skin. It is derived from salicylic acid, an oil-soluble acid used in skincare for acne and oily skin. Lipohydroxy acid has a chemical structure similar to salicylic acid; however its higher molecular weight and additional fatty chains render lipohydroxy acid to be gentler on the skin than salicylic acid.
Lipohydroxy acid was first developed by French cosmetics conglomerate L’Oréal, as a gentler alternative to salicylic acid for exfoliation and treating acne.
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Although lipohydroxy acid has been used in skincare products for years now (especially by L’oreal owned brands); it has been overshadowed by the other exfoliating acids such as alpha hydroxy acids, salicylic acid and polyhydroxy acid.
The tides seem to be turning for this overlooked gentle acid in 2024; with lipohydroxy acid now catching on in K-beauty! Keyword searches for Lipohydroxy acid surged by almost 300% in 2024 , according to Trendier AI’s data from major Korean beauty retailers like Olive Young and Naver Shopping. Popular Korean skincare brands like Torriden, numbuzin, and Some By Mi have included lipohydroxyacid in their skincare line up.
• Exfoliation
Lipohydroxy acid gently removes dead skin cells on the surface and encourages cell turnover for smoother and brighter skin
• Improve acne
Lipohydroxy acid’s oil soluble nature allows it to penetrate into pores to reduce blackheads and whiteheads. LHA also has antibacterial properties that improve acne
• Skin Renewal
Lipohydroxy acid stimulates collagen production to smoothen fine lines and texture
These effects of Lipohydroxy acid also result in reduced dark spots and smoother skin. The benefits of LHA are similar to salicylic acid. However, LHA is gentler, and less likely to cause redness, peeling, or irritation due to its slower penetration.
If you have sensitive skin together with acne, and signs of ageing such as hyperpigmentation and fine lines, Lipohydroxy acid is a good active ingredient with minimal irritation. Lipohydroxy acid’s lipophilic properties and controlled exfoliation mechanism make it a gentle exfoliant. However, if you already tolerate salicylic acid and alpha hydroxy acids well, you might find lipohydroxy acid skinicare to be slower in effects.
Popular products that contain Lipohydroxy acid include:
• La Roche-Posay Effaclar Micro-Peeling Purifying Gel Cleanser
• La Roche-Posay Pure Niacinamide 10 Serum
• Skinceuticals LHA Cleansing Gel • Torriden Balanceful Cica Toner Pad
• Numbuzin No.5 Vitamin-Niacinamide Concentrated Pad
• Some By Mi AHA-BHA-PHA Range
Lipohydroxy acid is gentle oil-soluble acid that is taking off in the skincare industry. As a gentle alternative to salicylic, lipohydroxy acid exfoliates the skin to improve skin texture, acne and dark spots. For users with sensitive skin and struggling with these conditions, lipohydroxy acid is a worthy consideration for its low risk of skin irritation.